Fez

Fez

Missing 2 more brothers!

I am writing this from the Paris airport on the way to Istanbul. Trying to think about our last four days in Morocco is very difficult. Everything is blurring into one endless day. I am exhausted from not sleeping and got really sick ever since my host family fed me lamb tongue and dates for dinner Saturday night. I'm so surprised!
Despite the tongue, my second host family was equally wonderful as the first. The Benlamleh family reminded me of my own- four kids, 3 crazy brothers and my littlest princess, Aischa. I didn't know what was going on most of the time but my favorite moments in Fez were spent playing with them. On Friday we spent the day touring the city, stopping at amazing buildings and traditional metal, carpet, leather, and clothing workshops. It was interesting but since it was our first day of doing touristy things I realized what a big, loud group of Americans we are and that meant people trying to sell you anything you made eye contact with.
That night Emily and I went out with my host family's oldest son and his best friend, Anouar and Achraf. They took us downtown to a cafe and then some bars. We stood out even more. For one, we were blonde Americans, and two, we were women- you don't see much of either in Fez at night. It was a good time, I am glad the guys were with us because we were still harassed quite a bit even in their company. We helped them practice for an upcoming interview in English and they gave us some good insight on the Moroccan view of Americans. Anouar had never met an american and admitted he was worried we'd be "cold blooded". He thought I would not like his house. But he said "Kathryn, I do not understand half of what you are talking to me. But I know we are good friends. Polite and big smile all the time. I worry for nothing".
Before I left, a friend of mine asked out of curiosity if I was scared about going to two Muslim countries (Not in a judgmental way at all). I hadn't thought about it. Unfortunately, atrocities committed by extremist groups have caused some to view the entire Islamic population in a negative light. Just like problems caused by US interference has led some Moroccans to view Americans in a negative light. When it comes down to it, Islam is a religion that teaches how to be a good person. And I am not exaggerating when I say that every single person I have gotten to know personally here, all of which are Muslim, have been nothing but good to me- kind, welcoming, generous. Calling me daughter and sister, insisting they sleep on the floor so I have a bed. We need to experience people before we judge them, their religion, their country. Because people are good.
Anyways, on Saturday we went to an artisans workshop. I was in heaven. They even let me take a try at the wheel and lay down tiles while everyone was shopping! That afternoon we had another discussion about US/Moroccan relations with university students. In class discussions at Tech, no one wants to offend anyone by disagreeing. I always start an opposing view point with "You know, I totally see where you're coming from and you made a great point, but I kind of sorta have a slightly different perspective..." I never want to offend anyone because it makes me uncomfortable. But the Moroccan students would straight up fight. Instead, they would say "I completely disagree and I think you're wrong." They weren't afraid to raise their voice or make angry gestures. They didn't hesitate to call us out either. Big fan of that.
That night I watched the annual fashion show. Asmae, the mom, and Meryem, her neighbor, are both seamstresses. They held my hands the whole time and oohed and ahhed over all the beautiful, colorful dresses while little Aischa braided my "barbie" hair (daps to barbie corrupting perfect little girls world wide). It was such a fun girls night. Then they brought out some of their most fancy dresses for me to try on. I could not believe Asmae made them! They proceeded to take approximately 900 pictures of me in each dress, in every room, in front of any large piece of furniture. It has been decided that I will marry in Morocco so they can make my wedding dress. Have I mentioned how much I love them? Yesterday we said goodbyes and saw some Roman ruins, a huge demonstration, and Casablanca. I was sick and delirious most of the day but it was cool.
Some final thoughts about Morocco that shouldn't be left out: Touching is healthy. Here, everyone gives kisses on the cheeks, walks arm in arm, and gives pats on the back. It's the best. It is also perfectly socially acceptable for random strangers to hold another random stranger's baby for a quick snuggle before handing it back casually. Families stay together. Both my families were so close and had lived in the same community, with the same neighbors, for generations. There is great respect for the elderly. The Benlamleh family treated Fatima, their deaf and handicapped grandmother with a love and care that was really beautiful. Last, the call to prayer happens five times a day, reminding everyone to give thanks for God's constant presence. My host dad, Mohamed, said "Just like you need food for your health, you need prayer for the spirit". So true. You can tell from how long this is how much I loved my 11 days in Morocco. On to Istanbul in a few hours!